Lakes with the lot

At the end of the Aurora Channel, the Ocean Grange jetty looms into view and, yes, there are a couple of spots available.

Within minutes your cruiser is alongside. You've got your hat and sunnies on, and off you walk, over the dunes to that spectacular view of 90 Mile Beach Facilities for boats on the Gippsland Lakes - including destination jetties, marinas, small-boat ramps, slip yard and maintenance facilities - make this magnificent system a Mecca for those who enjoy their boating under sail or power.

This vast spread of lakes and rivers that stretches over 60km - from the newly redeveloped Port of Sale in the west to Lakes Entrance in the east - is rapidly being 'discovered' by those looking for fun-filled weekends and holidays, as well as the many 'grey tops' now making a late-life seachange.

GOOD LORD, WELLINGTON
The system begins with Lake Wellington at the western end, which is connected via McLennan's Strait to Lake Victoria; then onto Lake King and, finally, through a manmade entrance at the popular tourist resort of Lakes Entrance to join the southern seawaters of Bass Strait.

Paynesville, a mere 16km from regional capital Bairnsdale, is 'boomtown', with canal living and other new housing developments among the township's many attractions.

Across the McMillan Strait and serviced by a car ferry, the once poorly regarded Raymond Island is also enjoying new-found popularity, and stylish townhouses with marinas out front now grace the waterfront.

The popularity of more sedate and serene Metung overlooking Bancroft Bay never wanes, even though the iconic charter company Bulls Cruisers has just "upped stumps" and moved its base to Paynesville. 

AIR OF AUTHORITY
On the Gippsland Lakes, two authorities are responsible for seeing that boaties get a fair deal: Gippsland Ports Authority and the East Gippsland Shire Council.

Gippsland Ports provides around 50 jetties for recreational use, at no cost to users. Typically, a mixture of 10–12m cruisers and yachts can be found tied up on a sunny weekend, as well as the runabouts whose crews are out for the day.

Bunga Arm, where at Ocean Grange and Steamer Landing there are large jetties, is one of the most popular destinations. In a displacement cruiser, it's around 45 minutes from Paynesville, the Lakes' boating 'hub'.

At Lakes Entrance it's the ever-popular Barrier Landing that attracts the crowd, as well as Drews Jetty just across the often fast-running outlet.

CEO Geoff Kohlman says he doesn't know of another boating region in the country with such a range of destination jetties, and he believes they are unique to Gippsland Lakes.

As well as providing destination jetties, Gippsland Ports currently leases 450 berths and 320 swing moorings to boat owners, and additional berths are proposed at Paynesville by extending existing jetties. Planning approval is also being sought for a new 440-berth marina proposed for Club Spit at Lakes Entrance.

The authority also provides on-water sewage pump-out facilities at popular destinations, and also maintains 250 navigation aids to international standards.

MAINTENANCE FIX
For the maintenance of vessels ranging from smaller private craft to large commercial fishing boats and the Raymond Island ferry, a major boatyard is operated at Paynesville.

This yard boasts a 40-tonne travel lift and 120-tonne slip, while a new 100-tonne travel lift is presently under construction at Bullock Island and due for commissioning in mid-2005.

While the East Gippsland Shire's priorities are, like all other councils, more diverse, it operates marinas at Paynesville, Metung and Chinaman's Creek. The largest complex in this trio sits in front of the imposing Paynesville Motor Cruiser Clubhouse in slip Bight Road, and is soon to be expanded through the addition of a fifth jetty.

The shire got into the marina business before 'amalgamation' because of growing demand, and is now in the process of asking itself "where to from here?".

Apart from marinas, the shire focuses on small-boat launch ramps. It recently opened a redeveloped dual-lane facility on the popular Tambo River at Johnsonville.

Boat ramps are also located at Seacombe, Wattle Point, Paynesville, Metung, Nungurner, Loch Sport and Lakes Entrance; and it is understood that more upgrades are planned. 

UP HERE FOR THINKIN'
Both the Gippsland Ports Authority and the East Gippsland Shire Council know the value of providing encouragement and facilities for those wishing to enjoy these magnificent waterways in a boat.

They know that with boats come tourists; with tourists comes money; and with both comes the need and the ability to establish specialist marine businesses, and to staff these with specialists looking for such employment.

For the boatie, the lakes and facilities that are found at all points of the compass make this system arguably the best in Australia.

Distances between one destination and the next are typically in the order of 10–15km, meaning that a couple of hours in the morning can be spent in transit - perhaps at a leisurely 6–7kt clip - and maybe stopping to pick up some extra ice and that day's papers before selecting a place to tie up and socialise, or to throw in a line.

Then, after a lazy afternoon, it's your choice of a dinner onboard or a short walk to the nearest local rubbity-dub, where a hearty meal is served and good country hospitality abounds.

The spirit and pace of the Gippsland Lakes can be summarised by the story one local tells about a boat that one hotshot salesman tried to sell him.

"It's near new," he prattled. "Got twin turbocharged Volvo diesels, goes like the clappers and is in great nick."

"How many cans could you get into yourself between Paynesville and Duck Arm?" the prospect asked.

"Open up the throttles and you wouldn't even get one into you," the purveyor enthused.

"Mate," came the reply, "for down here I'm looking for a three-can boat!"

Such is life on a waterway system that offers an abundance of destinations, excellent on- and off-water facilities, and which is now becoming recognised as one of the country's ultimate boating playgrounds.