How to prepare your boat for safety and practicality

There’s a special feeling that comes with pushing off from a ramp – that mix of excitement and freedom that only a day on the water brings. Whether you’re heading out for a casual fish, a family day on the lake, or exploring new waterways, boat setup can make or break the experience.

And it’s just not about tidiness or aesthetics: it’s about safety, efficiency, peace of mind and small habits that make a significant difference over time.

If you spend enough time on boats, you’ll notice one common trait among experienced skippers – their decks are spotless. Not polished for vanity’s sake, but clear of clutter. The front casting deck, for instance, should always be free from loose items.

When you’re fishing, particularly in choppy water or wind, anything rolling around is a hazard waiting to happen. A stray tackle tray, drink bottle, or even a misplaced lure can send you stumbling at the worst possible time.

My rule is simple: anything that doesn’t serve a purpose on deck gets stored. Tools like pliers, lip grips, fish-handling gloves and rags should be tucked under the gunnel, within arm’s reach but out of the way. If you’re tagging or measuring fish, keep your ruler nearby, too – but never loose.

Pro tip: pre-plan your “grab zones.” These are the spots where essential tools live permanently. When things heat up – a fish on the line, strong current, or fading light – you’ll instinctively know where everything is.

Fishing rods are one of the most expensive and fragile items on a boat. Yet, it’s common to see them bouncing around or lying across the seats as people travel between spots. Not only is that risky for your gear, but it’s also unsafe for passengers

I run a simple system of rod holders sourced from any major tackle store. They’re inexpensive but make a world of difference. When travelling through chop, my rods are locked in tight – no rattling, no rubbing against the gunnels, no cracked guides.

When you’re setting up your holders, think about access as well as safety. You don’t want to be climbing over rods to reach a net or lifejacket. Keep rods positioned so you can grab the one you need quickly without knocking others.

If you’re running multiple outfits (a light spin setup for bream, a heavier stick for flathead or snapper), group them together so your setups stay neat and consistent.

Every skipper has a legal and moral responsibility to keep their passengers safe. But “having” safety gear isn’t enough – you need to know exactly where it is and how to access it fast

In my boat, all safety equipment lives in one bright yellow waterproof bag clearly labelled with my name and boat registration and includes:

• V-sheet and flares;
• Torch and spare batteries;
• Emergency drinking water;
• First aid kit;
• Bailer or bucket; and
• Extra rope and gloves.

If I’m taking others onboard, I always point it out before we leave the ramp. Everyone should know where that bag is. If something unexpected happens – engine failure, medical emergency, or rough weather – it’s no time to start searching through hatches.

Store your safety bag in a consistent location, ideally a side hatch or compartment that stays dry but easy to access. The key is consistency: don’t move it between trips or vehicles.

Tip: mark the bag with reflective tape and check expiry dates on flares annually. It’s one of those little maintenance jobs that can make an enormous difference when things go wrong.

Boating and saltwater are not the best of friends. Something always needs tightening, reattaching, or adjusting – often when you least expect it. That’s where a compact waterproof toolbox is a not-negotiable.

The toolbox should include a basic set of spanners, screwdrivers, pliers, zip ties, spare fuses, electrical tape and a multi-tool. It’s enough to fix small issues like a loose battery terminal, a corroded connector, or a broken bimini fitting.

The key is permanence. Leave it in the boat, not in your car or shed. Tools degrade faster when they’re moved in and out, and you’ll inevitably forget them one day when you need them most.

If you’re boating in remote areas or salt-heavy conditions, consider a corrosion inhibitor spray (like Lanox or CRC) and a small container of spare nuts, bolts and split pins. They weigh nothing and can save a trip from disaster.

Every angler knows how gear tends to multiply over time. One day you’re carrying packets of soft plastics, and the next your boat looks like a travelling tackle shop. The trick is to find a middle ground: enough gear for versatility without clutter

I use a waterproof tackle bag that lives under the deck, with separate stowaway boxes for different lures:

• Soft plastics;
• Topwater lures;
• Hardbodies; and
• Jig heads and terminal tackle.

If I’m fishing structure for bream, I grab the small plastics tray. If I’m chasing tailor or flathead, I’ll have my hardbody box ready to go.

The benefit goes beyond convenience, as it keeps the workspace clean and efficient. No digging through bags while fish are busting up behind the boat.

And if you often fish with mates, keeping your gear separated and organised avoids the classic “whose lure is this?” conversations at the end of the day.

Modern trailer boats are designed with clever storage spaces, including hatches under seats, side pockets and bow lockers. Using them wisely is the difference between an organised boat and a floating garage sale.

With that in mind, here are rules to abide by:

• Front compartments for light gear like lifejackets and soft tackle;
• Midship areas for heavier items (batteries, esky, tool kit) to maintain balance; and
• Aft storage for anchors, lines and anything used less frequently.

Weight distribution matters. A poorly balanced boat burns more fuel, rides harder, and can even affect handling in chop or while planing. Keep heavy objects low and centred to improve stability.

If you’re running an esky or livewell, secure it with straps or non-slip matting. The last thing you want is a 40-litre esky sliding across the deck mid-turn.

Boat setup isn’t just about gear layout; it’s also about readiness. A setup that looks perfect at the ramp won’t mean much if your bilge pump doesn’t work or your navigation lights are dead.

Before every trip, do a quick pre-departure check:

• Test bilge and livewell pumps;
• Check engine oil and fuel levels;
• Make sure navigation lights, anchor light, and sounder power up correctly;
• Confirm your safety gear is dry and accessible; and
• Inspect trailer lights and straps

It sounds basic, but 90 per cent of breakdowns or safety issues can be avoided by this five-minute ritual.

A big part of safe, practical boating is anticipation. Ask yourself:

• If I hook a big fish, do I have a clear path to move around the boat?
• Can my crew reach the life jackets without asking?
• If I need to cut the anchor in an emergency, is the knife handy?

These scenarios are rare, but responsible skippers prepare for them. The more often you launch, fish and travel, the more natural it becomes to think two steps ahead.

Once you’ve nailed the basics, a few upgrades can make your setup even better:

• LED strip lighting under gunnels for night fishing;
• Non-slip EVA flooring to improve traction and comfort;
• USB charging ports near the helm for phones and GoPros;
• Small fire extinguisher mounted where it’s visible and dry and
• Labelled storage bins for wet and dry gear.

These don’t just make your boat safer, they make it feel more like a well-oiled workspace.

A well setup boat is like a tidy workshop: everything has a purpose, and everything has a place. You’ll fish more effectively, move more safely, and enjoy every trip a little more.

Most importantly, boat setup isn’t a one-time job: it’s an evolving system. As your fishing style changes or your boat upgrades, revisit your setup. Ask yourself what slows you down or clutters the deck and fix it before the next trip.

Because when the sun’s out, the tide’s right, and the fish are biting, the last thing you want to be doing is looking for your pliers.