HAINES HUNTER PROJECT BOAT (PT 9): A 445R runabout conversion to a centre console

With the electrical fit up and engine rigging out of the way in Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 8, the home stretch was in sight. Around Christmas time, I embarked on the completion of the stainless work, which consisted of the T-top frame, snapper racks (rod holders) and bow rail.

Throughout the electrical fit up and installation of the other deck hardware, the stainless fabrication was always in the back of my mind — the placement, configuration and functionality were important considerations that would finish off the boat and complete its aesthetic profile. And fishability.

Gareth Thompson from Reel Appealing had done customisation work for me on another boat previously and he's worked on all styles of trailer boat brands - Cootacraft, White Pointer, Edencraft, Haines Hunter and Seafarer (to name a few) - as well as his fair share of aluminium boats. Suffice to say, his workmanship and quality is first rate.

I engaged Gareth early on in the process, even before the rebuild of the boat's floor and top deck, as I had to get his requirements on anchor points for his work so it could be contemplated in the overall build process. He's also a fisherman which means he brings a lot of practicality to the functional aspects of his design configurations.

SNAPPER RACKS AND ROD HOLDERS
The set-out of these had to ensure the right rod angles (placement of holders) and positioning of the frames so they didn't obstruct the hatch openings to the live wells (which many set ups are often guilty of) and the mounting of the bait board, which is also tied in to the functional aft work area.

The deck space on a 445 is limited, so nothing should encroach on the cockpit area or impede movement in the confined space.

The end result was a solid system that, fully installed, boasts rod capacity for 14 outfits, material thickness of 32mm stainless, and is fully removable, with integrated rod holders recessed into the top deck.

When racks are removed for inshore trolling, there are a couple of heavy-duty spots for a pair of rods when chasing bigger predators.

The bait board was sourced from a third party and Gareth installed that to complete the bait station/prep area.

FISHING WITH A BOW RAIL
The height of the bow rail and its length were key considerations. Once the console was in place we established where the bow rail would run along the top deck and finish. Where it ends is important, as it enables a passenger either side to hang on when underway or walking to the bow for balance.

The raised casting deck area obviously results in reduced freeboard, so the bow rail height up front also ensures some safety when moving about and fighting a fish, casting, or if the need arises to free up a fouled anchor… we used solid 25mm stainless-steel for whatever the scenario might be.

Later, if an electric motor is added, we will simply cut a section of the bow rail and add a hinge to enable it to be deployed. The navigation lights were fitted and wired in - that part was easy and over.

A FOLDING T-TOP
The height of the boat on the trailer enables it to fit in most standard car garages. The console height didn't need to be any taller for practical reasons. Early on in the decision process, a folding T-top was identified as a good option… if one could be fabricated that would work.

Too often folding T-tops vibrate, flex and appear flimsy, which doesn't instil confidence at all. Gareth was all over this aspect and had done a few before — the key aspects were the anchor points, with the console itself acting as the base, and the sturdy 32mm thick stainless tubing.

Having a T-top that folds down means that, when casting from the bow, the frame wouldn't get in the way. It also adds to the usability of the boat, depending on the style of fishing on the day, so it needed to be quick and manageable by one person. I'm happy to say in regards to ease of use by one person that box was ticked.

The height of the T-top saw a bit of mucking around, ensuring clearance above the driver's head, and making sure the rods in the launcher above weren't too much of a reach to access. We got it right.

Another other tricky element was the installation of the radio antenna. This needed to be installed so that its base wasn't impacted by the folding top and when the aerial folded up it wasn't obstructed by the frame. Gareth and Matt took care of this with the electrical fit up in Part 8.

Cleats were added and positioned at the bow and stern. With the stainless work now completed, the boat's profile came to life — I was really happy with the result, which makes a statement about the boat's purpose, how it will be used for fishing, and I think there's a fair bit of my input and personality in there, too.

DECK AND SPREADER LIGHTS
I got Matt to install LED under-gunwale lights, which tuck up underneath the top deck. Two colours: white and red. Of course, red provides light without affecting your natural vision and, also, without attracting bugs when fishing at night.

The internal positioning of the lights also means you are not projecting light onto the water and there is reduced glare and reflection from the stainless gear.

We ran low-profile LED spotters on top of the T-top and a set of deck lights at the back and one facing the bow. An anchor light was also fixed to the T-top frame and a secondary anchor light installed at the top of the console, when the T-top is not used as a back-up.

All lit-up at night, the dash looks great and the lights on the displays mean you can see everything when underway without searching.

TRAVEL AND TOWING COVER
While the electronics were installed in the centre console in such a sway they would handle being exposed to weather - by virtue of centre consoles being what the open boats that they are - a decent travel cover was the next accessory for when the boat is stowed and towed.

Avtek covers in Cranbourne were given the job to customise a snug fit for the boat. Michael Walker managed this and went over my requirements. We wanted to avoid too many press-studs (which in my experience only seem to break over time and add to maintenance) and I wanted the console protected with a cover that was able to be easily fitted and removed by one person.

Michael suggested a cover-style more akin to ski boats where the boat is wrapped up like a big sock. Initially, I couldn't conceptualise how this would work, but with those famous words "trust me" ringing in my ears as I drove away, I left it with him.

I returned a few days later, the boat was presented with the cover fitted, and I was given a five-minute tutorial on how to fit and secure it. The cover was really exceeded expectations and the boat is fully protected from the elements.

Also, the cover design allows me to access the boat without the need to take it off completely. I can also travel with the T-top up or down.

Michael also installed the canvas sun shield on the T-top and I was on my way. The boat will get a set of clears and curtains once I decide how I want that to be set out. A small job for another day!

WATER TEST
It was time to drop the boat in the water for a quick sea trial. But before that, as the engine had effectively been idle for nine months, an oil change and a quick once over of the vitals was carried out. An injector cleaner was used in the first cycle of fuel to blow out any cobwebs.

The boat launched effortlessly off the trailer… due to careful weight distribution in the rebuild, my 'new' boat sat almost dead level on the water. Perfect.

After a decent warm-up at idle and a slow crawl out of the marina at Martha Cove, it was time to see how it behaved on open water.

I discovered it was slow to plane, but then climbed to 28 knots. The rev ranges weren't consistent with expectations, so some deeper analysis was needed.

Earlier speculation was that the engine might be mounted too high. The engine was dropped down a hole by the next run, which saw an instant improvement!

A few squid were landed, which enabled the bait tanks to be tested for water flow and bait mortality was zero, so they passed the test.

Some further testing of different props will be the next step to see what might be gained, especially given the boat's new set-up graduating from the former 445R runabout it was previously.

More time on the water will see any remaining issues ironed out, however, it's been a great result getting this far.

THREE TOP REBUILD TIPS
1. Plan your stainless work and rod holder placement to avoid clashes with hatches that open and to ensure fish-ability/functionality of deck space.
2. Ensure that marine trades are talking to each other about the positioning of what they are installing and get involved to ensure things will work as required.
3. Consider not just the now but "later." You might decide to add extras down the track. So consider some redundancy to the initial set up.

In the next and final article we'll wrap up the HAINES HUNTER PROJECT BOAT with a final report and some reflection on the lessons learned of the rebuild project. We'll also cover a dedicated fishing trip or two or three… the boats going to get a solid workout that's for sure. - WORDS AND PHOTOS BY DANNY WRIGHT.

FURTHER READING:
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Pt 1
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Pt 2
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Pt 3
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 4
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 5
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 6
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 7
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 8