Haines Hunter project boat (Part 10): Converting a 445R runabout to a centre console
Our project boat’s raw flowcoat flooring looks good, but doesn’t really cut it in the heat of the moment. The solution is to add some customised coversDanny’s project boat is almost finished, but one last job needs doing before we can sign off on it.
The flowcoat on our Haines Hunter 485 project boat’s new floor is a good colour and aesthetically pretty easy on the eye. However, it’s a bit slippery when wet, and a bit too hot underfoot on warmer days.
The solution is to apply marine flooring. There are dozens of aftermarket products and brands out there, and endless options are leaving boaties overwhelmed as to what flooring solution to buy, and what’s involved in fitting it. Even I remained confused after chatting with sales reps at boat shows, with no one solution standing out as a clear-cut favourite for my needs.
This is what was important to me:
- Comfort
- Quality and longevity
- Easy to clean
- It needed to look good and blend in with the boat’s revamped profile
- Cost-effective
I had flirted with the DIY option, but didn’t really have a grip on the lay-up process even after scouring the internet to research products and read about other people’s experiences, good and bad.
In the end, I decided to call Shane Paton from Deck Armour, a closed cell foam flooring product that won’t absorb colour and can be applied to most surfaces including checker plate. This is how the process went:
1. Get a quote
A professional supplier will inspect the boat to provide a quote, or else base it on images of the area you want to resurface and a set of measurements. You may need to pay a deposit at this point.
2. Create a template
Using a template to map out and measure the surface area of the marine flooring is a critical part of the process. Carefully measuring angles, corners and obstacles such as existing deck hardware can be very time-consuming; a professional may take a couple hours, while the average person could take half a day or more.
Get this part wrong, and you may run out of materials. That will mean pulling up the material and starting again – as well as frustration and extra cost!
3. Select the colours and material
Many colours are available, but generally speaking light colours will show grime and stains, meaning the surface will need ot be maintained. Go for a darker material, and especially if it is a low-cost one it will attract heat and become hot to the touch under the sun.
Think of the colour that will best suit your needs in daylight and at night, and your standards of maintenance. Decide if you want horizontal or vertical lines, or gaps between the sheets so water can escape when washing down.
Sound advice from Shane helped with the design, and placement and size of the artwork.
4. Ensure you approve of the digitised artwork
A professional installer will send you an electronic file of the designed floor’s layout, including any customised logos. It’s then up to you to check if the proof is exactly what you wanted. Once signed off, the design will go to machining.
5. Plan the installation
Preparation here is critical. Remove any existing flooring or adhesive material on the surface, even if it means sanding and re-applying the flowcoat. If the surface is in good condition, a simple but thorough wipe with acetone to clear away any surface contaminants is all that’s needed. A clean surface is a must.
If you’re doing the job yourself, the floor sections either will come in sheets for you to cut using the template as a guide, or already precisely pre-cut on a CNC router.
Lay all the cut pieces out like a jigsaw puzzle before peeling off the backing and fixing it in the correct spot. Once placed, massage contact with the deck using your body weight. Allow 24 hours for the adhesives to cure, keeping it out of the weather.
Food for thought
- Quality and design are important because the large surface area of the floor makes a big visual impact. Customers are increasingly wanting personal touches to give their boat a point of difference.
- The thickness of materials on the market mainly ranges between 4-6mm. Opting for 8mm Deck Armour is next level in terms of comfort.
- Cutting the sections using a template is difficult and needs patience as it needs to be millimetre perfect. Assess your capacity and limitations realistically.
- Using a professional kit means a supplier should have replacement sections if a repair is ever needed.
- Light amplification, where sunlight reflects off other surfaces and concentrates, can damage the decking. Use a diffuser if this happens, and cover the boat when not in use to limit UV exposure.
- Follow all care instructions and practice good cleaning habits. Use soap to wash down the floor at end of each day. Stubborn stains typically hose off with help of a degreaser and a light brush.
“Boat flooring used to be just about slip resistance,” Paton says. “With new flooring technology it has become a lot more.
“Consumers want a product that’s soft underfoot, designed to mitigate against damage caused by impacts, and which are heat-resistant and minimise glare – it’s a complete change to the way people go about boating,” he said.
Most marine retailers offer marine flooring products and installation. Customisation can add artwork such as a brand logo, boat name, fishing rulers or combing pads.
In the end, I was rapt with my new 8mm charcoal flooring, the old-school logo sitting proudly in the heart of the deck as a direct link to this rebuild’s mid-1980s roots. The finish looked sensational, exceeding all my expectations.
With this, the Haines Hunter 445 project is now almost complete. Keep an eye out for the final wrap-up and video, coming soon!
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 1
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 2
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 3
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 4
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 5
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 6
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 7
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 8
>> Haines Hunter Project Boat Part 9
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