Dream Charter

What struck me as I gazed from the Aircalin flight crossing mainland New Caledonia, was how unlike any other Pacific island this mountainous land is, with its mix of rainforests and soaring peaks. And that’s because it’s actually related to us, being part of Gondwanaland, which broke away from our own continent.
New Caledonia is one of our nearest neighbours, about 700nm off Australia’s east coast, along the same line of latitude as Townsville. It’s surprisingly big, the second largest island behind New Zealand. Its main island, Grande Terre, is 400km long with a western seaboard that boasts the world’s largest coral lagoon, a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One of the earliest sailors in this part of Melanesia was Captain Cook who passed by in 1774 and upon seeing the mountainous hills cascading down into a rocky sea with the endemic pine trees clinging to rocky terrain called it after the old Roman name for Scotland, Caledonia.

But Cook’s visit was brief and it was French sailors such as La Perouse and later D’Entrecasteaux who explored this archipelago of reefs, islands and the interior of jungles across Grande Terre until Napoleon annexed the place in 1853. Decades followed as a penal colony with the indigenous Kanaks pushed aside by their French colonial masters who in turn began a race of white landowners, known as Caldoches.

History colours a place, so it was no surprise to drive past indigenous huts alongside ranch style farms as we sped into the capital Noumea, a 45 minute ride from the international airport. We’d arranged to pick up our Dream Charter boat from the Isle of Pines, about 60nm south, so before boarding the domestic flight, stocking up with some extra supplies was a priority, though the boat was fully victualled with essentials already.

With French produce predominant, food and wine is a major experience. Scouting around the streets behind our hotel on Noumea’s beautiful Anse Vata beach, uncovered small mixed business shops displaying tasty Bordeaux wines, lively Beaujolais Nouveau and those lovely baguettes to spread delicious French pâté on. The only thing  curtailing our shopping was  the weight limit on the inter island plane, which took a mere 20 minutes to reach the Isle of Pines, a region that features in most of the country’s tourist brochures thanks to the myriad shades of azure blue found among its waters, pine clad islets and intimate hotels.

Our four-day trip would take us north, pushed by the region’s strong trade winds, allowing us to explore the islands and outlying reef on the way. Weighing anchor in Kuto Bay the following morning, we motored past the few other cruise boats for the short hop to our snorkelling destination of Brush Island. Like all private land in New Caledonia, permission should be sought beforehand from the local chief and some token gifts given, including a small amount of money.

After a short motor into the prevailing SE wind with no other yachts in sight, Oliver guided the Dufour through the reef to anchor in 4m before jetting us ashore in the RIB for a talk about the uninhabited island. Gazing around, no other footprints could be seen on the beach, as Oliver warned us not be alarmed about the sea snakes and not to intrude on the Kanak picnic areas. The dense foliage of the interior was home to many varieties of seabirds including terns that bickered above us and majestic sea eagles that swooped across the pine treetops.

Wading along the shore, I met a potentially dangerous native, the banded sea snake that elegantly swam right up to me, probably on its way to sun itself at tree-edge. Oliver had warned us that the snake’s mouth was too small to bite a human so I admired its checked markings as I began my snorkel to escape the boiling midday heat. Later, dropping the kayak over the side I explored the shallow outer reef and marvelled at the views north where islets dotted the empty horizon and below me dark caverns hid darting reefing fish.

Following a delicious lunch of fresh prawns and salad, quickly prepared by the effervescent Claudia while we showered, we hoisted sail for the afternoon voyage north. With the chart plotter showing an abundance of underwater reefs and islets dotting the passage, I was glad we had an experienced skipper like 32-year-old Oliver to take the worry out of navigation, leaving us to enjoy steering. With 15-20 knots on the quarter, a day’s exhilarating sailing followed with the 120 per cent genoa and full main powering us along at speeds of 10 knots which soon ate up the 30nm leg.

The twin steering positions and foot rests were needed as the metre-high quartering seas tested the steerer during the sunny afternoon but the cockpit-length bimini kept us cool along with ample cold drinks.

With my binoculars showing breaking waves in the distance, studious attention  of the chart plotter followed as we headed for the lee shore of the main fringing reef with wind and growing waves pushing us on towards the narrow gap. Bucking the tide, a pod of dolphins passed the other way as large waves cascaded over the teeth of the jagged reef. Skipper Oliver explained that bare boats aren’t allowed through this SW region as parts remain uncharted, so we gingerly made our way through the 300m wide gap, known as Recife Tienda, into the calmer waters of the main lagoon that would shelter us all the way back to Noumea thanks to its 600-km long surrounding coral fringe, an ideal safe haven for bare boaters.

With the fading afternoon light, we shaped a course east, passing a few small islands with inviting beaches but a lack of holding kept us heading towards the safe anchorage of Va where we skirted its large outlying reefing to anchor among the half-dozen other cruising monohulls and catamarans. With the tradewind blowing its socks off at around 30 knots we appreciated the good holding afforded at Va as hostess Claudia produced yet another tasty meal of tangy New Caledonian sausages and salad, washed down with a light Beaujolais Nouveau.

New Caledonia is a major windsurfing and kite-surfing destination, its consistent trade winds a big attraction for the international crowd that descends annually as part of the kite surfing world tour. Despite being an experienced windsurfer, kite surfing is a whole new set of disciplines so my first lesson involved only assembling it, laying out the four control lines then learning how to fly the kite.

Afterwards, we packed it away, hoisted the RIB onto its davits and winged out the sails for a breezy afternoon 35nm voyage to yet another island. Up ahead the mountains of Grande Terre loomed larger, with clouds scudding past their peaks. The green and verdant cow pastures of the mainland’s valleys are home to large ranches and many livestock, thanks to ample rainfall. But even more valuable is the nickel and other mineral deposits which the French Government understandably covets, and is the reason that, unlike neighbouring islands that have gained independence, New Caledonia remains wedded to its European master despite tenuous plans for change.

Approaching the mainland our cockpit chart plotter showed a maze of reefs and some visible islets around us, so vigilant navigation was called for yet again. Skirting a series of cardinal marks that looked in good condition gave me confidence in the area’s buoyage but nevertheless experience would be important for prospective charterers. Unlike the relatively sheltered and hazard-free waters of the Whitsundays, New Caledonia offers bare boaters a wilder experience, definitely a reason for making the short flight over. Back on deck, our evening’s destination was fast approaching, Maitre Island just off Noumea, as our boat speed tipped 10 knots in the 25 knot following winds. Skirting the long tongue of the reef, I could see the lights of the island’s sole hotel as I prepared to grab one of the dozen or so public mooring buoys.

With everything secured, a click of a beer can lid signalled sundowner time while from below decks wafted a savoury scent, thanks to Claudia’s galley wizardry. Glancing east the lights of Noumea twinkled invitingly, signalling our journey’s end.

Noumea Yacht Charter, Email: n.y.c@canl.nc Tel: (687)28.66.66
Port Moselle, Noumea.