Buying the right PFD Type 1 lifejacket

Personal flotation devices, or PDFs as lifejackets are more formally known, are an essential part of boating in Australia.

While their use at all times on the water is not mandated, it makes sense to wear them as today’s lifejackets can be so slim-fitting and comfortable that you’ll forget you’re wearing it.

However, there are certain times when wearing one does make sense, such as crossing bars, travelling at night (particularly during whale migration season) or visiting unfamiliar waters.

But buying a new lifejacket can be a bit confusing. If you’re like me, you’re often drawn to whatever is cheapest and on special, but it may not be suited to how you intend to use it.

It’s important, then, to look at the differences between Type 1 PFDs to see how they can make your on-water experience, particularly in an emergency, all that safer and better.

A Type 1 lifejacket is loosely referred to as a coastal lifejacket, made for general boating. If you own a powerboat or sailboat, this is the type of lifejacket you need.

A PFD Type 1 is built to an Australian standard, which means it will have a certain level of buoyancy that includes head support, is a bright colour, has a whistle for attracting attention, and is fitted with reflective tape so you will stand out if light – even if it’s just the moon, hits you at night.

The design of the PDF makes it as easy as possible to keep the upper part of your body afloat. This includes turning you onto your back so that your face, and more importantly mouth, sit up out of the water.

When you buy a lifejacket, it will have a level number printed on it. This number refers to the amount of buoyancy the lifejacket provides in the water, with a higher number representing more buoyancy.

The minimum rating for PFD Type 1 lifejackets is level 100, meaning the jacket will provide 100Nm of lift in the water. You can buy lifejackets that are rated to level 275, but these are usually only for someone who is regularly in extreme offshore conditions.

There are two considerations when choosing what level of lifejacket you buy.

The first is where you go boating. If you’re regularly offshore, a lifejacket with a higher level rating, say 150 to 275, makes more sense if you suddenly find yourself in rough seas and needing to stay up higher out of the water.

If you’re an inshore boater, say visiting estuaries and lakes and sneaking short distances offshore, a lower rating such as 100-150 may be all you need.

The other important factor to consider is your build. Shorter, slimmer people obviously need less buoyancy to stay afloat compared with larger people, so if you weigh more, increase the lifejacket’s minimum buoyancy level.

Traditional lifejackets still have a place in boating, even if they’re just permanently stowed in easy reach as a back-up. Hard-wearing and easy to put on, a traditional lifejacket is the only real set-and-forget system.

These lifejackets are also well-suited to children because they work as soon as they hit the water with no intervention. Lifejackets sold for children depend on the weight of the child, so make sure to check them on the scales before heading down to the chandlery. 

The downside to a traditional jacket? They can be a bit bulky to wear, meaning they can restrict movement, and more so as you go up in the level rating.

Manual inflating lifejackets are much easier to wear, but they rely on the user pulling a cord to puncture a carbon dioxide cylinder to activate them. That means you could be in the water for some time before you find the cord and pull it.

Why is this an important distinction? If you’re unconscious when you go in the water – say you’ve hit your head as the boat capsized, or a wild gybe connects the boom with your head, you’re not in a position to activate the jacket.

That’s where self-inflating lifejackets come in. These use a small paper cylinder that dissolves in water to trigger the mechanism that inflates the jacket. It means that if you’re holding on to anything important as you hit the water, such as a marine radio or mobile phone, you don’t need to let go to inflate the lifejacket.

While manual and self-inflating lifejackets have the advantage of being almost invisible to wear, there are some disadvantages.

The first is you will need to service an inflatable lifejacket at least twice a year to ensure it is up to the job. Sometimes this can be done by the owner according to instructions provided by the lifejacket’s maker, but sometimes you will need to mail it back to the maker for a service.

Servicing it is complicated and involves inspecting for wear and tear, blowing it up via the mouthpiece and leaving it overnight to ensure it can stay inflated, and then deflating and repacking it.

You may also need to buy a service kit to replace parts.

It’s also important to write the service date on the lifejacket so that if you’re challenged by on-water authorities, you can show that the jacket has had regular maintenance.

The other disadvantage of inflating lifejackets is that sometimes they will inflate unexpectedly, often because the pull chord is mistakenly tangled in something and yanked.

It makes sense to pack spare carbon dioxide inflation bulbs so that you can repack and reset an inflatable lifejacket in the event of an unexpected blow-up.

Type 1 PFDs can sometimes be customised to suit the owners’ needs. For instance, you can buy specialist lifejackets that are integrated into wet weather gear so that all you need to do is put on a coat without needing to put on a lifejacket over the top of it. 

Lifejackets can also have optional crotch straps fitted. Consider fitting one if you are regularly offshore or have a high-buoyancy lifejacket because there’s no fun in slipping down inside the inflated jacket all the time.

You can also buy lifejackets with harness fittings featuring a stainless steel D-ring and stronger webbing that can support your full weight. If you’re regularly using jacklines or have points in the cockpit where you’re able to clip into the boat, this style of lifejacket will make sense.

Some lifejackets can also come with lights that will definitely help to locate you in the water. You can buy clip-on lights – either a solid or flashing type – that can perform a similar role if you’re not out at night that often.

Yes, but only if you let the airline know in advance that you’ll be taking one with you.

The issue is with the compressed carbon dioxide cylinder that is used to inflate the lifejacket. Because the gas is stored under high pressure, there is a very remote chance it could explode, meaning it is classed as a dangerous object.

Depending on the airline you’ll be asked to either stow the jacket in your checked-in luggage or carry it on board with you to stow in the overhead locker.

There may also be restrictions on the number of replacement cartridges you can have with you while flying.