Buying a trailerable sport fishing boat

As well as having the right gear, knowledge and experience, you're going to need a pretty special craft to journey out to the offshore grounds where these magnificent species frequent.

So what size boat do you need? Alloy or fibreglass? Mono or multihull? Let's consider your options. 

Travelling up to 30 miles or more offshore in a trailer boat to fish wide of the continental shelf might seem like madness to some people, but for diehard anglers, the chance of catching giant billfish and tuna is the ultimate lure.

Trailerable sport fishing boat checklist:

I must admit, the sound of a Penn International reel screaming as 150kg plus of billfish rips line from it still gives me an adrenalin rush.

There's nothing quite like marlin fishing, and this is why many anglers will spend vast sums of money and go to extraordinary lengths to do it.

Even so, you've got to be very keen to regularly run that far offshore in a trailer boat.

More often than not, you will finish the day empty-handed, and with a two-hour-plus trip back home. If you are lucky, the weather will still be good. If not, then the trip home is going to be tiring and uncomfortable at best.

Given these long distances to travel and potentially extreme weather conditions, it is clear that only a select number of trailer boats are going to be capable of running out to these wide offshore fishing grounds.

These "canyon runners" must have the safety features and seaworthiness to deal with any of the sea and weather changes that may arise.

Size matters when it comes to buying a powered trailer boat for offshore fishing. Anything under about 5.5 metres is not going to cut it – and in truth, 6.0 metres is a more realistic minimum size.

You could fish more than a dozen miles offshore from a smaller boat, but it will be uncomfortable in the long term, and potentially dangerous in rough weather.

There are some exceptions (some powered catamarans for example), but generally, trailer boats under 5.5 metres do not have the inherent seaworthiness or safety features to fish wide offshore.

If you’re looking to buy a craft that is capable of fishing the continental shelf, I would recommend a craft that is closer to 7.0 metres in length.

A larger boat will be more comfortable, but comfort and seaworthiness will need to be balanced against cost, ease of towing, storage and many other factors.

There also is no sense shopping for a $300,00-plus 8.0-metre sports fisher if your budget is stretched at $150K.

There are pros and cons for both aluminium and fibreglass boats for offshore sportfishing. Many anglers will look at nothing else but a deep-vee fibreglass monohull from the likes of Signature, Grady White, Boston Whaler, Cruise Craft, Evolution, and Haines Hunter. 

It is easy to understand why, too. Deep vee fibreglass rigs in the 6.0 to 7.5-metre class are big, well finished, well outfitted, and above all else, they are soft riding.

They also tend to be heavy, require big outboard power, and are costly.

The most obvious alternative to a big fibreglass boat is a plate aluminium boat from a small custom boat builder or from one of the half dozen or so Australian and New Zealand production-plate boat makers. 

Names such as Yellowfin, Bar Crusher, Surtees and Stabicraft spring to mind here.

Big plate boats are immensely strong, durable, and close to maintenance-free. 

With full custom-built plate boats from boutique builders (such as Australian Master Marine) you can often specify a custom interior layout too. 

For example, if you want a 100-litre live well built in front of the outboard well, you can most likely order one. Similarly, if you want an extended hardtop or much bigger fuel tank, then a custom plate boat maker will likely be able to accommodate you.

On the negative side, plate alloy boats are often noisier, many are a bit harder riding than a similar-sized fibreglass rig, and the build quality of plate alloy boats can differ significantly between brands and builders. 

Lightweight pressed aluminium boats are also an option for offshore sport fishing, and they are quite popular with anglers fishing between the 15 and 20-mile range offshore. Beyond that range, however, I believe a fibreglass or plate alloy boat is a much better bet because they are generally more capable, smoother riding, more seaworthy.

Since the early 1970s and the debut of the original Bruce Harris SharkCats, powered catamarans have been very popular with offshore sport fishermen.

Cats are also the first choice of the water police and most search and rescue authorities.

I too am a great fan of powered cats, having fished from at least half a dozen different models over the years. The boats have included a 5.2-metre Kevlacat (one of my favourites), several SharkCats, and a 9.0-metre flybridge PowerCat game boat.

What was common to nearly all of the powered cats I have fished from is their rough water capability.

Size-for-size, there is simply nothing like a powered cat with regard to rough water handling, ride comfort, stability, and inherent safety. This makes them ideal for fishing wide offshore waters – at least with regard to safety and seaworthiness.

A good, high tunnel powered cat will be soft riding, hugely stable, and have plenty of interior fishing space.

On the negative side, the cockpit and transom layout in most powered cats is dreadful for fishing (due to limited over-transom access), and the finish on some brands leaves a lot to be desired.

Powered cats also demand quite a different driving style to a regular monohull, and some people have trouble adjusting to the way many cats lean “outward” when cornering. 

A high purchase price, the need for two engines (and the subsequent higher running costs), and a heavy towing weight are other notable disadvantages.

But, if you can live with the negatives, the benefits of a powered cat are considerable. I love the way a good cat will eat up the miles running offshore, allowing you to reach your fishing destination feeling fresh and raring to go.

The trihull is another multihull type suitable for offshore fishing. However, the hull design of individual brands differs quite substantially so it is difficult to make a general comment regarding the ride and performance of the group as a whole.

One thing that is consistent is that just about all trihulls are more stable than a comparably sized monohull.

With regard to ride comfort, some trihulls (including the Hydrofield range) are as soft riding as a powered cat, but others can be quite hard riding. It depends on the individual hull shape, and for this reason, when considering the purchase of a trihull, it is very important to trial the boat before you hand over your money.

Cuddy and walkaround cabin boats are my preferred configurations for fishing wide offshore waters, but for maximum fishing deck space, you really can't beat a centre console.  

Big, 7.5 metre-plus centre consoles from the likes of Boston Whaler, Haines Signature, Sea Fox and Grady-White certainly make for excellent offshore fishing boats, but providing they have a wide enough console helm station and overhead hardtop to provide the crew with some measure of shelter. 

Smaller, sub-6.5 metre centre consoles (and runabouts) generally have ample fishing deck space, but bugger all protection from wind and rain. For me, this absence of shelter rules these craft out for wide offshore fishing.

I can endure getting wet for a half-hour run back to port, but getting soaked to the skin on a two-hour-plus run home from wide offshore fishing grounds is another thing altogether.

Of the cabin configurations, the walkaround is arguably the best layout. A walkaround will have a small cabin structure surrounded by a walkway that is wide and deep enough to stand and fish over the side.

With a proper walkaround layout, you should be able to fish a full 360 degrees around the boat, just like a centre console.

The modern centre cabin layout differs in that it is closer to a cuddy or half cabin design than a centre console, in the sense that most centre cabs have a near full-size cabin and just a shallow trench around the cabin.

Often, this walkway trench is higher than the cockpit floor level, and for this reason, there may be very little freeboard around the sides.

In most centre cabin boats (fibreglass models in particular) the walkway around the cabin is used mainly to provide quick access to the bow, not as a spot to stand and fish from.

For maximum weather protection, often at the expense of cockpit deck space, your best option is a half cabin with a fixed hardtop and an enclosed saloon/helm station area.

This layout is best suited to 7.0 metre-plus trailer boats. 

With an enclosed saloon there is dry space for comforts such as extra seating, a workbench, and more. Electronics gear such as VHF radios and GPS plotters can also be mounted in lockers above the helm, under the hardtop, fully protected from the elements.

With an enclosed wheelhouse/saloon, the crew stays warm and dry in all conditions, and you can fit a proper glass windscreen with wipers for improved visibility.

Most offshore fishing boats above 6.5 metres in length can be bought with twin outboard engines. Whether you need or can justify the cost of two engines is another issue.

Modern four-stroke outboard engines are ultra-reliable and rarely break down, so it is debatable if you need two engines – especially if you fish within VHF radio range, or can join your local volunteer rescue organisation.

Modern outboard engines can and do still break down, so I admit I would be happier fishing wide offshore with a pair of four-stroke outboards on the transom.

Having two engines may not protect you against battery failure or dirty fuel (assuming a single fuel tank) but it will arm you against quirky failures from things such as a blown fuse, a faulty spark plug, or an engine that switches into limp-home mode.

A single diesel sterndrive is another option with merit, but given the much-improved fuel economy of modern outboards, I think I would still opt for twin outboards, especially as the purchase and installation costs would be similar.

The number one priority in any fishing boat is a large, uncluttered cockpit. Other requirements include above floor side storage pockets (with toe/foot bracing security underneath) enclosed, above floor battery lockers, easy rod access over the stern of the boat, and plenty of storage lockers.

You will also need a large live bait tank, underfloor kill tank or fish box, lure and tackle storage drawers, rod rack or rocket launcher, and a good workbench or cutting board where you can rig lures or chop bait.

Wide side and rear coamings are also a big plus, making it easier to install flush mount rod holders.

Rod holders should be made from alloy or stainless steel. Cheap $10 plastic holders will simply not cope with the forces exerted by big game fish and heavy tackle.

Another consideration is the height of the freeboard in the cockpit. If it is too low, you will feel insecure and risk falling overboard when fishing in rough water. If the freeboard is too high, then it is difficult to work a rod up and down when fighting a fish.

Rolled topsides are more kind on fishing lines than right-angled topsides.

As you can imagine, there are plenty of other things to consider when shopping for a trailerable sport fishing boat.

Is there dash/helm space for flush-mounted electronics? Do you need a hardtop or bimini? What about seating and cabin space? Do you have a big enough tow vehicle? Can you keep the rig at home, or will you need to store it at a marina?

These and other issues should be addressed before you set out to buy a trailerable sportfishing craft. Knowing your wants and needs upfront will make the whole process quicker and easier.