Beautiful Balearics

The Balearic Islands have some of the most beautiful coastal scenery in the entire western Mediterranean and are a popular year-round yachting destination. With temperatures that rarely dip below 10C the region is a popular wintering destination for long-term voyagers as well as charterers who enjoy the comfortable summers where the sea breeze keeps the heat bearable.

Lying about 60nm from the Spanish mainland, with nearest major ports of Alicante, Valencia and Barcelona to the north, the Balearics are only a day sail off the coast but a world away from the hectic mainland. Serviced by dozens of charter companies in the main islands of Mallorca and Ibiza and with an estimated 60 ports, the archipelago is a safe cruising destination.

The largest town in the Balearics, Palma’s busy commercial port is a hub for regular ferry services between the other islands -- Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera -- as well as having an international airport a short distance from the city.

Dominated by kilometres of marina frontage and the backdrop of the beautiful cathedral, Palma is a city of peaceful squares (plazas) and stylish boulevards where top-class hotels cater for the rich and famous. Eating and drinking can be a near 24-hour adventure with tapas bars serving the most delicious cured hams (Jamón Serrano) for only a few Euros you can enjoy a tasty boccadillo (sandwich) or slice of the famous tortillas (filled omelettes) -- all washed down with fine sherries fruity local wines. The town’s myriad of alleyways house a mix of boutique hotels, ecumenical buildings and shops of every kind including eccentric expatriate bookshops and curiosity parlours.

Enjoying then escaping the bustle of Palma by boat is the best way to see this fascinating archipelago. On a two-week cruise you will have time to explore the neighbouring islands of Menorca, Ibiza, and Formentera. For a week, Palma charter company Cruesa advised that most visitors usually sail up the east or west coasts of Mallorca for a leisurely six-day sail. Cruesea’s prices range from Euro 2420 for a Beneteau Oceanis 343 in the peak season (June-August) to Euro 6950 for a Salina 48 catamaran. However there are an estimated 70 companies and brokers to choose from so it pays to search the web and do your homework. Everything from entry-level day sailors to luxury Swan yachts are available and there’s also plenty of catamarans as well. None of the global charter companies now have bases here but major local players include Sun Charter, MBS, Charter Mallorca and Cruesa.

Mallorca is a beautiful island of rugged coasts, sheltered beachside coves and an interior of high peaks with Puig Major at 1,400m the highest in the Balearics. For sailors there are plenty of sheltered bays only accessible by sea and a day sail takes you to your next destination.

Keen sailors could circumnavigate the diamond shaped Mallorca in one week if the weather worked in their favour and the prevailing winds dictate that an anti-clockwise circumnavigation is best. The north coast is relatively exposed, often a lee shore for the wild winds from the Gulf of Lyon that bear down on it and there’s only one all weather port at Soller, so a downwind run along it is preferable.

Onshore, the single coast road is rough and twisty, as this writer can attest to having done it both by scooter and rental car. Also to the west is the picturesque port of Andratx, a mix of modern developments and old white houses around the horseshoe-shaped bay. Inland, historically to prevent sacking by pirates, the main town is much quieter and only a hired moped ride away.

A popular first night anchorage after picking up the charter boat from Palma is Cala Portals a few miles to the SW of the town. For those heading east, Isla Cabrera lies off the SE corner of Palma Bay and is a maritime national park (anchoring not permitted overnight) and entry is by permit only but is a stunning spot often touted in tourist guides.

Further east is the beautiful Costa de las Calas with Cala d’Or and Porto Petro the southernmost marinas followed by Porto Colom 5nm further with its cobbled waterfront, shops and chandlery. Porto Colom is a quiet traditional fishing village sheltered in a deep bay with a large natural harbour, so a good base for exploring the twisty inland roads by rental car. For nightlife and a busy marina with all services, Porto Christo is the next port of call.

Mallorca’s NE corner contains two of the island’s largest bays, Alcudia and the smaller Pollensa both of which have marinas and is a quieter part of the island and also a good jump-off point north to Menorca. Marina Alcudiamar is a modern facility with plenty of berths but in peak season (June-August) like most of the Balearics, it pays to call ahead.

Sailing south takes you to stunning coves such as Cala Covas where mooring includes ropes ashore and nearby caves are inhabited and some even used as nightclubs. Sailing further east takes you to one of the largest natural harbours in the Med and much favoured by the British maritime hero Admiral Nelson, Minorca’s capital Mahon. The town’s ancient history of Bronze Age settlement and more recent dark days of Franco’s incarnations in Fort Isabel should keep sailors fascinated. Mahon is also a good port to prepare and watch for Mistral-free days for the 200nm open sea voyage to Sardinia.

Along with the port of Santa Eulalia and Ibiza town it’s the home for several charter fleets. The approach from sea is surrounded by sand dunes, sandbanks and low-lying bays so keep an eye on the sounder.

Heading east to quieter waters could include Cala Badella where crystal clear diving awaits and the beach is a topless sunbather’s heaven. Heading further east to Ibiza Town is the main port for re-victualling and maintenance, along with a berth at the Club Nautico. Charterers from Palma often make the 80nm crossing directly here to start their cruise.

Its ancient fortifications, necropolis and seagrass fields have made it a UNESCO World Heritage site. The protection of seagrass has meant a limitation on anchoring with mooring buoys the preferred option in many parts of the Balearics. Ibiza city is a fascinating mix of old and new with its ultra-modern designer-brand shopping amid ancient walls.

A short sail SE of Ibiza town takes you to the small island of Formentera but on the way there is the sand spit of Espalmador, also known as the Pitius Islands. The wide bay of Puerto de Espalmador is a popular anchorage for motor boaters and sailors alike so can get busy. The low-lying Formentera has only one busy port. Puerto Sabina along with this sand-dune-covered island is another UNESCO site and skippers can find some quiet bays to visit.
Really, the Balearics have everything a charter sailor could want including open-sea voyaging, cosy anchorages and you can ‘bop till you drop’ in the nightclubs.

Flights
www.Iberia.com
www.spanair.com